Do you love the art of growing and maintaining miniature trees? Do you know what Bonsai ramification is? In this post, you will learn all about Bonsai ramification, Bonsai ramification techniques including pinching, pruning, as well as Ficus, Olive ramification.
Ramification is dividing of a stem and limbs of a plant into smaller branches. Bonsai ramification involves precise pinching and pruning techniques over the course of time to produce fine and tapering branches.
The main aim of ramification in Bonsai is to achieve inward dense growth of branches, rather than an outward growth. Growth and survival of healthy branches (and more leaves) will help a Bonsai get more sunlight, and therefore, more energy.
Let’s dive into all the details of creating a masterpiece of Bonsai art and ramification.
Ramification in Bonsai
Ramification involves a carefully controlled growth of foliage along branches. It is the pattern in which the trunk divides into branches, and branches into further smaller branches.
Most gardeners and horticulturists use pinching and pruning methods to promote dense and bushy inward plant growth.
Inducing ramification on the plants with shorter internodes normally shows desirable results. However, in plants with larger internodes, ramification proves to be difficult for achieving desirable results.
Before getting into the technique, it is crucial to discuss 2 important features of ramification. These are mentioned below:
Taper
The term “taper” refers to the shape of the tree that is thick at the base and gradually becomes narrower towards the top. Generally, the base of the trunk of Bonsai should be thickest at the base.
The main branch should be thinner as compared to the base of the trunk, and secondary branches should be thinner than the main branches. While purchasing a Bonsai, you should select one with the described shape and avoid buying one with an irregular branch manner.
Internodes
In Bonsai, the area between each node on a branch, where new shoots grow from, is termed “Internodes”. In Bonsai, shortening the internodes will increase ramification, thereby creating a bushier and denser tree.
How is ramification done in Bonsai?
As a matter of fact, ramification is not a one-night formula. It requires years of precise pruning and pinching skills. Here’s a step-by-step guide to ramification. Keep reading to learn more.
Step 1. Selection of Tools
If you want to keep your Bonsai in good shape, you must have at least a basic tool kit. However, a professional tool kit is preferable because it includes a bigger set of tools. If you are a beginner, you can use the basic one that should include the following tools:
- Bonsai scissors
- Pruning shears
- Concave branch cutters
- Copper Wire
- Wire cutter and pliers
- Tweezers
- Spades
- Root hook
Make sure to use clean and sharp tools, as dirty tools spread diseases from tree to tree. You can collect tools separately, or get a full tool kit like this one.
Step 2. Pruning
Pruning means shortening or removing branches from trees. Most beginners are afraid of pruning their trees, in fear that they would hurt or kill their tree. In fact, without pruning, you can’t achieve ramification.
Naturally, trees focus on the top and outer growth. Pruning helps in the shape maintenance of the tree and encourages the growth of the inner parts of the tree. Normally, there are three basic reasons for pruning.
- Removing unwanted branches
- Maintaining an established form
- Encouraging new growth close to the trunk.
Best time for pruning Bonsai
Maintenance pruning can be done throughout the season. However, to create ramification, the dormant season is the ideal time for pruning. That’s because it is the time when the sap is not rising in the tree. Pruning time also depends on the selected species of Bonsai.
Therefore, you should keep the below-mentioned points in mind.
- The best time to prune pines is in the late autumn.
- Evergreens such as junipers should be pruned in the winter or early spring.
- For most deciduous trees, winter and early spring are the best time for pruning. That’s when dormant buds are just beginning to break.
- Japanese maples should be pruned in the mid-winter when the sap level is not high. You should not prune them in the early spring because of the maximum activity in the main trunk.
Branch selection for pruning
For an already established Bonsai, you should avoid changing its shape, because it will take a lot of time to develop primary branches. In fact, you can easily identify the main branches or primary branches of your established or younger tree.
The main branches are those that develop directly from the trunk. The secondary branches grow from primary branches, and tertiary branches grow from secondary branches.
Next, it is time to decide which branches on your tree to prune. No doubt, sometimes it can be difficult to decide which branch to remove and which one to leave.
Ramification in Junipers
Let’s explain ramification with an example of junipers, for which the ultimate goal is to achieve tertiary ramification.
Prune Unwanted Branches:
- Carefully select the unwanted branches closer to the base of the primary branch and prune them. Similarly, prune branches closer to the base of secondary branches.
- After trimming all the unwanted branches, the basic shape of the Juniper tree will be in front of you.
- If your tree has foliage, allow them to bud 3 inches before cutting them with scissors. This process should be done in spring.
- Once you’ve trimmed all the foliage with scissors, take a look at the shape of your tree. Imagine how it will look like in the next growing season, when all the new buds sprout from the trimmed areas.
Pinch new growth
In the next growing season, you will see new buds appearing. So, pinch all the new growth to promote back budding. This way, internodes will begin to shorten naturally and ramification will increase.
After the development of back budding, allow the buds to grow for a full growing season.
For pinching new growth, you have to wait for the next growing season.
Distance Between the Foliage pads
- The goal is to keep a consistent distance between foliage pads, for example, a distance of 3 inches (8 cm).
- For this, pinch new growth to promote back budding between internodes. This way, the extra spaces between the internodes will be filled to display symmetrical and well-arranged foliage pads.
- Also, remove the unwanted tertiary branches.
- Finally, use wiring to control any uncooperative branches.
How to do Pruning in Bonsai?
Maintenance pruning requires simply cutting branches/shoots that have enlarged or outgrown the desired size. You should use twig shears or a normal cutter like this. As a result of pruning, Bonsai grows evenly and develops dense foliage.
A basic guideline for the process of pruning is mentioned below:
- Place the tree at an eye-level in front of you.
- Remove all the dead trees and twigs from the tree.
- Examine the tree carefully to decide the place of branches in future tree development.
- If you notice two branches of the same height, keep one while removing the other.
- Target vertical growing branches that are difficult to bend due to thickness.
- Cut the branches that have unnatural turns and twists.
- Cut the branches that are covering the front of the trunk.
- Remove the thick branches at the top that are discouraging the tapered look of the tree.
- Use a concave cutter while trimming the thick branches to avoid any nasty scars.
- Fill the scars with wound paste like this to avoid any infection.
- Fertilize your tree as you normally do. Place your tree rest in a shady place for a few months for recovery.
Defoliation in Bonsai
Defoliation is the removal of healthy leaves from the plants. This is done to induce a new flushing growth. It is a refinement technique that should only be done on deciduous trees that are strong enough to withstand the procedure. Only perform on mature trees.
Defoliation then allows an even distribution of sunlight, so it can reach the inner buds, thereby increasing the tree’s potential for further ramification.
The partial defoliation process involves the removal of up to half of foliage in the later spring/early summer. It is done on many deciduous species of Bonsai. Full defoliation is carried out on the strongest species, for example trident and Japanese maples.
When the leaves are removed, a tree will naturally replace them with new leaves of reduced size. As a result, the ramification will increase. It will also suit the general Bonsai shape much better.
Defoliation is also carried out to maintain a balance of trees by reducing the growth at specific parts. For example, when you defoliate the top part of a Bonsai without touching its base, the growth of the top part will reduce.
What is Bonsai pinching and why is it done?
Pinching is a process of removing shoots tips by using your forefinger and thumb. It helps prevent shoots from elongating and promotes bushier growth at the back. Unlike deciduous trees, pines and conifers should be pinched with fingers.
Only perform pinching when the structure of main branches in your Bonsai has been reached, and only in the refinement phase.
If you use scissors while pruning conifers, dead brown foliage might form at the cutting spot. To avoid this, carefully pull the shoot away by holding its tip between your hand and index finger.
The goal of pinching is:
- To redirect the energy of the tree inwards, as opposed to outwards, by removing a new bud.
- To achieve symmetrical and balanced foliage along all branches without bare patches.
- Force your tree to grow new buds in areas that don’t already have any foliage.
Step 3. Wiring
Wiring is crucial to style your Bonsai tree. By wrapping a copper wire around the branches, you can set an angle and shape of the branches. For most tree species, it can be done throughout the year.
However, because during the growth season the bark grows in thickness much faster, the wire can cut into the bark. So, keep an eye on your tree to remove the wire on time.
Two types of wire are used for wiring. One is anodized aluminum, and the other one is annealed copper. Beginners should preferably use anodized aluminum like this, which is easier to handle.
As a general rule, the length of the wire should be 50% of the length of the branch that is to be wired. The thickness of the wire depends on the thickness of the branch (preferably ⅓ of the branch thickness). For thick branches, use a thick wire.
The main aim of wiring is to get the desired shape of the tree with minimum wire marks on the branches. It requires one complete growing season to achieve the desired shape.
The best time for wiring is the early spring. Because of the increased sap flow and growth rate of Bonsai trees, branches are easy to manipulate and bend.
Here’s the step-by-step procedure of wiring. Have a look to know more:
- Select the branches that require wiring.
- Fix one end of the wire for support.
- Start wrapping from the base of the trunk and move upwards.
- Use 45 degrees angled coils and keep on wrapping up to the top.
- Make sure not to wrap the wire too loosely or too tightly.
- To anchor 2 branches, use an adjacent branch or solid support as an anchor point.
- Start wrapping the wire from one branch across the other.
- Also, take a few rounds across the adjacent anchor branch if it is away from the wired branches.
Ficus Bonsai Ramification
The Ficus genus belongs to the “Moraceae” family. The branches of the ficus are flexible, and the tree has the ability to merge plant parts that compress each other.
If you wish to get a thick trunk in Ficus bonsai, you should leave your tree to grow normally for one to two years. However, regular pruning is required to maintain the shape of the tree and to increase ramification.
Winter is the best time for pruning branches to avoid wounds. Once 8 new leaves have grown, prune 2 of them back. In some species of ficus, larger leaves grow that require pruning for size reduction.
The early summer is the best time to carry out defoliation on ficus. For finer ramification, defoliate the whole tree. For wiring thicker branches, use a strong wire. However, for medium thickness branches, you can use a copper wire. Make sure to remove the wire at the right time to avoid any scars.
Olive Bonsai Ramification
Generally, ramification is somehow different in Olive bonsai compared to other species. Unlike other species, when you prune a branch, Olives don’t grow new shoots.
If you want new shoots, you have to wait and allow a branch to grow longer. You can shorten it later, after new shoots mature. Pruning and pinching an olive tree in mid-summer will encourage branching.
Wire the branches with aluminum wire after pruning or before spring. Young branches are easy to bend, while older branches are brittle and difficult to bend. Avoid wiring older branches because you can achieve branch shape easily by pruning.
Conclusion
Hopefully, you have learned more about Bonsai ramification by reading this post. Ramification is very important in Bonsai practice, as it allows to control and improve foliage growth along branches.
To learn more about Bonsai care and growth, please see this page.